Cast Iron Collectables

 

Series of 50 collecting info

#47 of a Series of 50

 

Comparing good and bad casting

Comparing Good and Bad Casting

 

BUT HOW DO YOU KNOW IF IT’s OLD?  

In order to understand the difference between an older piece of cast iron and a newer piece (reproduction), you have to somewhat understand what cast iron is and how it’s made. Especially cast iron Collectables and antiques.

Very general rules

In the olden, golden days talented wood craftsmen would have carved out the perfect shape of a item with fine detailing and then heated up molted metal to around 2000 decrease (give or take) and pour it into the mold. When cooled the two or more parts of the mold are separated and wa-la, the shape of whatever you designed is made. Most wood molds are generally only used once due to the heat.

Cast or casting is generally referring to a mold. People that do ceramics in most part use molds and they blow hot glass into it to get it’s shape and what it’s going to look like is determined by the shape of the mold.

Cast iron is the same

Now having said that, cost effective reusable molds would be made of sand and water Solutions, which are referred to as “SAND MOLDS” They’re more widely used especially on smaller items, such as toys, banks etc.

THE FINER THE SAND THE FINER, SMOOTHER AND DETAILED THE ITEM WILL BE. THE COARSER THE SAND,AND ROUGHER TO THE TOUCH, THE DETAIL AND QUALITY WOULD BE GONE,  “you get the idea”.

I never understood this part of today’s technology. By far our way of casting exceeds the casting from 50 or 200 years back. But the cast iron parts made today are coarser to the touch, crudely made, and in most part, in my thinking, not really attractive looking. In other words, they’re cheaply machine made, especially on reproduction antique and collectable Parts.

Cast Iron Collectables

So if we’re talking old cast iron money banks, cast iron door stops, door hammers, even cast iron toys, frying pans anything that has been molded, check the surface for fine or rough texture.

When I’m referring to casting, once you make that mold, you could theoretically pour molted aluminum instead of iron. That would make it cast aluminum. Many everyday items are cast aluminum.

If you look at any bottle, (pop bottle to beer bottle) look at the side from the bottom to the top, see and feel the 2 lines, one on each side of the bottle. That’s from where the two half’s of the mold met and separated to make the bottle.

That’s one way of telling how old the bottle is, but that’s a different subject all together.

There are many things that are made from molds. Fiberglass boats and cars parts, to name a few, are made from molds. So that technology is widely used today.

BUT WE ARE TALKING ABOUT CAST IRON. Eh!

By the way, iron is a very cheap “metal” by-product of steel.

Seven fast ways I check the age of cast iron.

  • Check the smoothness of the piece.

    POOR CAST IRON REPRODUCTION bank

    REPRODUCTION ROUGH CAST IRON

  • Check how parts fit together, tight with very little to no gaps, that’s a  good thing. Remember craftsmanship, real people assembled these pieces not machines.
  • Check inside of the part. Sometimes the casting is reasonably smooth on the outside but very coarse on the inside. That would be a red flag.
  • Check the quality of paint. In most cases, depending on the manufacturer, they dip the items in paint, which makes the paint thicker. Today items are sprayed on with very low quality paint and thickness.
  • 100 year old paint would in most part still look like last week’s paint job.
  • Check the screw or screws holding the sections/parts together. Older items before and around the industrial evolution were slotted screw heads, and, don’t get me wrong
    Slotted Screw HEAD on old cast iron banks

    WHAT A SLOTTED SCREW LOOKS LIKE IN AN ANTIQUE

    (that’s not saying the screw was not changed), but it does devalue the piece no less and could just throw you off from thinking it’s not an original.

  • They say compare the size of the part to a known authentic WHAT EVER. The reproduction one would be a different size than the original. There are some reference books that will give you measurements and  that’s only if you’re really concerned or paying large dollars for the item.

Once you get used to a few simple tricks, you might have a better understanding what to look for. There are more good reproductions of cast iron parts out there than the old authentic ones.  But you will at least  be armed with a few general things to look for.

Note.

By the way, small cast iron items such as banks, toy figurine, kitchen ware, skillets, anything small are good sellers, or on the other hand, just good collector items. Just remember, collecting cast iron “anything”, doesn’t take up a lot of room.

I’m not an expert by any means, This is just a simple guide on how I check, “anything cast iron”. Do your research, and learn more

Please check out my post on Collecting Space Age Toys.

Collecting Space Age Memorabellia.

This is part 6 of 

“THE LEAST YOU SHOULD KNOW” 50 series.

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Expert in Collecting Antiques?

Series of 50 collecting info

# 49 of a Series of 50

Keady Farmers Market

Famous Keady Farmers Market

  I asked this guy …what makes you an expert? “Because I say I am”

I read an article about an antique dealer on the hunt for unusual things, and he came across this fellow at an antique market who was highly recommended, but this dealer was taken by surprise as to how young he was and how he was so into collecting antiques.

This person was about 20 years old and said he was an expert in collecting antiques.

I asked this young guy what made him an expert. “Because I said I am”… Little on the smart ass side, but I was young once.

hit and miss engine

Antique hit and miss engine

Was he really an expert?

Nobody asked him what school he went to, college or university degrees he had and in the end, did it really matter? Everyone just went to him and trusted his area of expertise.  There are no better credentials then all your peers in the Antique community saying, “if you want to know anything about …………..  Then look up this “John Doe” fellow.  He’s an expert in that field.

If you’re thinking of getting into Antiques or Collectables for a hobby, investment or, like my wife and I (Mercenaries) That is a person who buys and sells, and doesn’t get attached to the goods. Learn all you can about your choice of interest.

The web, even though it’s an information overload, does supply you with a valid intake of good quality information as well. Do your research!

So, yeah, this young fellow was an expert, so age, looks, and schooling did not play into the equation. He just studied everything there was to know about his fancy of antiquities and in this dealers eyes, he was a highly respected (smart ass) expert in his field.

             “Remember KNOWLEDGE is power”

We can’t know it all, but we can be real, real good at certain things of interest….. And hopefully make money too.

Excellent local antique newspaper paper. 

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